In a break from tradition, Lee Barber, an 81-year-old farmer, will not be bringing his prized Brown Swiss dairy cows to this year's Iowa State Fair, marking the first time in nearly six decades. The reason behind this change is the ongoing bird flu outbreak that has been spreading rapidly among dairy herds across the country. Lee's son-in-law, Randy Franck, who now manages the family's dairy farm, made the difficult decision to avoid any risk of a cow testing positive for the H5N1 strain of avian influenza, which could endanger the farm's ability to sell milk.

The Barber family has a long-standing history with the Iowa State Fair, with four generations actively participating in the event each year. From offering a combination of family vacation and celebration of a year's hard work, this year's fair experience will be different. As numerous state and county fairs take place this summer and fall, officials in states like Iowa have implemented testing requirements for lactating dairy cows being showcased at the exhibits. The goal is to prevent potential transmission of the virus from animals to humans in these gatherings involving animals, people, and equipment.

Iowa State Fair, which concludes on Sunday, had to cancel popular attractions like the "I Milked a Cow" booth and demonstrations of cows and milking equipment due to safety concerns. Similar adjustments have been made in other states as well. Minnesota's state fair, scheduled to begin next week, will not feature the highly anticipated event of calf birth. In Michigan, if a single cow on any farm tests positive for the virus, lactating cows cannot participate in exhibits or fairs anywhere in the state for two months.

Dairy cattle are an integral part of state fairs, making it imperative to address the risk posed by the bird flu outbreak. This year, Iowa and several other states have imposed strict guidelines, requiring lactating dairy cows to test negative for H5N1 at least seven days before the fair starts. Some states, including Iowa, have extended the testing requirements to include the tanks that hold the milk before it undergoes pasteurization. Fair officials emphasize that these rules are aimed at safeguarding both animals and the public.

For the Barber family, these new regulations have significantly altered their experience at the fair. Lee and Luanne Barber, a devoted couple married in 1962, began showcasing their cows at the state fair in 1965 and have been participating every year since. Their farm, Lee-Ann's Swiss, located in DeWitt, Iowa, is home to Brown Swiss cows, renowned for their stubbornness. Over the years, their cows have won numerous top prizes, including champion breeder awards and first-place honors for different age groups.

Typically, the farm would have brought six or seven milking cows and four heifers to the fair, but this year, only the heifers made the journey to Des Moines. Instead of joining the bustling crowds that gather at the fairgrounds to enjoy various attractions, the Barber family finds solace in the cavernous cattle barn, their temporary home during the event. Within the barn, equipment for maintaining the cattle's health and comfort, such as rakes, shovels, wheelbarrows, and bags of beet pulp, coexist with cooling devices, baby swings, and communal living arrangements.

The absence of the Barber family's milk cows has been noticed by fellow breeders who are accustomed to the strong presence of their animals at the fair. The fair's superintendent of dairy cattle, Mike Eilers, revealed that the number of milking cows at this year's fair is approximately 30% lower than the previous year, primarily due to the testing requirements imposed on participants.

The impact of the current bird flu outbreak on the dairy industry cannot be underestimated. Over 192 dairy herds in Iowa and several other states have been affected so far, prompting concern from officials and researchers. Although this particular strain of avian influenza tends to cause less severe illness in cows compared to poultry, the focus remains on infected lactating cows that are capable of shedding high concentrations of the virus in their milk.

To mitigate the risk of transmission, the Iowa fair closed the communal milking parlor, urging exhibitors to refrain from dumping milk down the drains. However, the attitudes of some farmers towards the public health concern are mixed, with arguments that thorough pasteurization of milk effectively neutralizes the virus. Despite federal warnings against consuming raw milk, farmers like Randy Franck, who has been consuming it all his life, still prefer it.

As state fairs across the nation navigate the challenges presented by the bird flu outbreak, farmers and fairgoers adapt to the changes with mixed emotions. The annual supper organized by the Iowa Brown Swiss Association, renamed the "Bird Flu Elimination Party" this year, exemplifies the ability to make the best out of a difficult situation. Luanne Barber, reflecting on the event, noted the importance of adapting to challenges and finding reasons to celebrate amidst adversity.

While the altered state fair experience is a departure from tradition for Lee Barber and his family, the priority remains ensuring the health and safety of animals and fair attendees. As the bird flu outbreak continues to impact the dairy industry, farmers like the Barbers and fair officials collaborate to protect the livelihoods of dairy farmers and the well-being of consumers.