In a major blow to L.A.'s cocktail scene, The Varnish, a renowned cocktail bar that played a crucial role in revolutionizing modern mixology, will be shutting down on Wednesday after serving patrons for over 15 years. Initially opened in 2009 by Eric Alperin, Sasha Petraske, and Cedd Moses, The Varnish quickly became a revered speakeasy hidden behind an unmarked door within the historic Cole's French Dip sandwich shop.

The secret to the bar's success lay in its commitment to utilizing seasonal and fresh ingredients, vintage recipes, and artisanal spirits. It swiftly emerged as the epicenter of L.A.'s flourishing cocktail scene, winning acclaim for its expertly crafted concoctions, such as the signature Aviation with homemade crème de violette.

However, like many other businesses, The Varnish struggled to stay afloat amidst the COVID-19 pandemic. According to Eric Alperin, the bar's revenue plummeted to only half of its pre-pandemic levels, ultimately leading to its demise. Despite Alperin's earnest efforts to keep the establishment running, the financial burden became insurmountable, particularly in the last six months.

In a statement released on the bar's website, it was acknowledged that the exorbitant costs and liabilities associated with running a full-service culinary experience became untenable for The Varnish. The rising labor costs in Southern California, where one team member was required for every ten guests, further contributed to its downfall.

The closure of The Varnish adds to the growing list of food and beverage establishments that have succumbed to financial difficulties during these challenging times. Compounding matters, the surrounding area has witnessed an increase in homelessness, dissuading potential patrons from visiting the bar.

Eric Alperin, reflecting on the changing downtown community, stated that many people had moved away and the vibrant atmosphere that once defined the area had diminished. This shift in neighborhood dynamics, coupled with the rising costs, prompted him to acknowledge the unsustainability of The Varnish's operation.

The Varnish, which drew inspiration from the influential New York City bar Milk & Honey, opened its doors with the aim of spearheading a craft cocktail movement in Los Angeles. Its impact was quickly recognized, with the late Los Angeles Times critic Jonathan Gold featuring the bar in a story about the burgeoning cocktail scene in the city. Gold himself was a regular, often savoring an Aviation with friends.

The Bartender's Choice, a popular drink at The Varnish, allowed patrons to express their preferences, leaving the selection in the hands of the talented bartenders. This personalized approach only added to the allure and reputation of the establishment.

Eric Alperin took to Instagram on June 18 to announce the closure, disclosing that business had experienced an uptick since the news broke. As a farewell gesture, The Varnish plans to offer daiquiris to its final patrons on the last day of operation.

"I had my mourning period," Alperin expressed. "I think right now it's time to put her to sleep."

The closure of The Varnish marks the end of an era and raises questions about the future sustainability of the restaurant industry amidst the ongoing challenges.